UNVEILING GLAUKOS

Glaukos project aim was to develop eco-designed fishing gear and clothing, redesigning through a systemic aproach the entire value chain, all the way from renewable feedstock to textile prototype and ending with two end-of-life (EOL) solutions: biodegradation and bio-recycling.

Discover the innovations achieved by the GLAUKOS project for the sustainable clothing and fishing industries.

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FINAL EVENT

Unveiling Glaukos: showcase of breakthrough insights for Fashion and Fishing industries

PUBLIC DELIVERABLES

The following report documents the work performed for setting up the Glaukos project website and the project’s communication toolkit. Therefore, this report is not the deliverable itself. The deliverable has been done in the context of WP2 Communication, dissemination and exploitation which the specific objectives of designing the appropriate strategies, tools and activities to disseminate and communicate the project’s outcomes to the relevant target beneficiaries. This deliverable is part of Task 2.4 communication and dissemination and can be found in more detail described within such paragraph. All communications tools serve the project Glaukos in its aim to develop biobased textile fibres and textile coatings that are adapted to the needs of the 21st century. In this project the complete life cycle of clothing and fishing gear will be redesigned, their sustainability performance will be enhanced significantly, while their technical performance will be matched to end-user requirements. The project’s ambition is to significantly reduce the carbon and plastic footprint of clothing and fishing gear.

In the framework of the Glaukos project, Eurocord has been responsible to provide the group with a market study in the frame of WP2 (Task 2.2) on the use of some synthetic fibres in some main applications, generating a considerable “plastic waste” for the environment. The EU Directive “Single Use Plastics” from June 2019 clearly aims at reducing this waste stream throughout Europe, both on land and in the seas. For the consequent development of a bio-based or bio-degradable fibre, which should on term replace the synthetic ones, a preliminary examination of the use and the virtues of these man-made fibres is thus necessary.

The multi-actor approach is strongly promoted by the European Commission as a valuable tool to ensure that the research results are relevant, actionable and exploitable by the stakeholders, ensuring their acceptance and adoption. In Glaukos, the involvement of the Quadruple Helix stakeholders (Academia, Industry, Policy Makers and Civil Society) of the two targeted sectors (fishing gear and clothing) is central and will ensure that the project will respond appropriately to the different stakeholders` needs and requirements, considering the specific challenges, barriers and bottlenecks. This multi-actor approach takes place through the set-up and operation of two Stakeholder Labs, focusing respectively on fishing gear and textile sectors. The task dedicated to the Set-up and Operation of the Stakeholder Labs (T2.3) will form the framework for the Glaukos stakeholder involvement, ensuring that the stakeholders’ activities will provide specific information for the research tasks and serve the project in the most appropriate way. The preliminary composition of the Stakeholder Labs has been identified and established in the first months and will run throughout the entire duration of the project, with different objectives and missions, depending on the project’s implementation phase. Participating stakeholders will be able to give input and feedback on the required technical performance of the developed textile fibres and, in the future, to receive samples for application testing (e.g. exploratory marketing). Besides this technical focus, the Stakeholder Labs will form a great tool to raise awareness on the project’s activities and to address policy issues, by stimulating and facilitating the debate about the challenges to be addressed in the domains targeted by the project. The framework for setup and animation of the Stakeholder Labs, described in this document, will ensure that the stakeholders’ engagement activities will serve the project in the most appropriate way.
The document describes the co-creation exercise organized with Glaukos partners for the design of the methodological framework and for the identification of the most relevant challenges to be addressed during the first Stakeholder Labs workshop.
The deliverable also reports on the first Stakeholder Labs workshop organization and results, a first reflection on the relevance and usefulness of the adopted approach, as well as how the Stakeholder Labs will inform the next Glaukos steps.

The multi-actor approach is strongly promoted by the European Commission as a valuable tool to ensure that the research results are relevant, actionable and exploitable by the stakeholders, ensuring their acceptance and adoption. The involvement of the stakeholders is crucial to include all perspectives and to provide specific information for the research tasks in any project.
Glaukos is fully aware of the value of the stakeholder’s engagement and the partners are building a community of stakeholders around the project’s activities. This effort, together with the very innovative and potential “game changer” project’s research, have been rewarded by a great interest of different stakeholders on the project’s activities and expected outcomes.
The involvement of the relevant Quadruple Helix stakeholders (Academia, Industry, Policy Makers and Civil Society) of the two targeted sectors (fishing gear and clothing) in the different phases of the project, ensures that Glaukos will respond appropriately to the different stakeholders’ needs and requirements, considering the specific challenges, barriers and bottlenecks.
In Glaukos, the multi-actor approach takes place through the set-up and operation of two Stakeholder Labs, focusing respectively on fishing gear and textile sectors. The task dedicated to the Set-up and Operation of the Stakeholder Labs (T2.3) will form the framework for the Glaukos stakeholder involvement, ensuring that the stakeholders’ activities will serve the project in the most appropriate way.
The Stakeholder Labs run throughout the entire duration of the project, with different objectives and missions, depending on the project’s implementation phase.
During the first 27 months, participating stakeholders provided their inputs and feedback on the required technical performance for the textile fibers and coatings and, in the future, will receive samples for application testing (e.g. exploratory marketing). Besides this technical focus, the Stakeholder Labs form a great tool to raise awareness on the project’s activities and to address policy issues, by stimulating and facilitating the debate about the challenges to be addressed in the domains targeted by the project. This document reports on the activities related to the Stakeholder Labs from May 2021 to June 2022.

The multi-actor approach is strongly promoted by the European Commission as a valuable tool to ensure that the research results are relevant, actionable and exploitable by the stakeholders, ensuring their acceptance and adoption. The involvement of the stakeholders is crucial to include all perspectives and to provide specific information for the research tasks in any project.
Glaukos is fully aware of the value of the stakeholder’s engagement and the partners are building a community of stakeholders around the project’s activities. This effort, together with the very innovative and potential “game changer” project’s research, have been rewarded by a great interest of different stakeholders on the project’s activities and expected outcomes.
The involvement of the relevant Quadruple Helix stakeholders (Academia, Industry, Policy Makers and Civil Society) of the two targeted sectors (fishing gear and clothing) in the different phases of the project, ensures that Glaukos will respond appropriately to the different stakeholders’ needs and requirements, considering the specific challenges, barriers and bottlenecks.
In Glaukos, the multi-actor approach takes place through the set-up and operation of two Stakeholder Labs, focusing respectively on fishing gear and textile sectors. The task dedicated to the Set-up and Operation of the Stakeholder Labs (T2.3) will form the framework for the Glaukos stakeholder involvement, ensuring that the stakeholders’ activities will serve the project in the most appropriate way.
The Stakeholder Labs run throughout the entire duration of the project, with different objectives and missions, depending on the project’s implementation phase.
During the first 27 months, participating stakeholders provided their inputs and feedback on the required technical performance for the textile fibers and coatings and, in the future, will receive samples for application testing (e.g. exploratory marketing). Besides this technical focus, the Stakeholder Labs form a great tool to raise awareness on the project’s activities and to address policy issues, by stimulating and facilitating the debate about the challenges to be addressed in the domains targeted by the project. This document reports on the activities related to the Stakeholder Labs from May 2021 to June 2022.

This deliverable is part of WP5 (spinning, weaving prototyping), where the aim was to investigate the properties and spinnability of different Glaukos polymers, to develop a melt-spinning process of the novel Glaukos polymers to turn them into yarn, as well as to post-process the yarns before manufacturing them into textile prototypes for fishing gear and clothing applications.

This deliverable is part of WP5 (spinning, weaving prototyping), where the aim was to investigate the properties and spinnability of different Glaukos polymers, to develop a melt-spinning process of the novel Glaukos polymers to turn them into yarn, as well as to post-process the yarns before manufacturing them into textile prototypes for fishing gear and clothing applications.

In this deliverable D6.1 we present what has been achieved in:

  1. Biodegradation (mineralization in biphasic closed bottle). We have performed screening tests to assess the inherent biodegradability of polymers in seawater under standardized conditions that should maximize mineralization rates (right inoculum present and no nutrient limitation). To this day, on a laboratory scale, we have managed to develop an adapted method specifically designed for seawater, and with significantly shorter time frames (and therefore better serving Glaukos’ purposes) but without losing reliability or rigor. This protocol has already been successfully applied to real Glaukos samples provided by Glaukos project partners I-Coats and B4Plastics.
  2. Mechanical degradation (assessment of tensile properties in closed system at lab scale). Incubation in 30 L closed system in order to assess kinetics of mechanical weathering and fragmentation under standardized conditions that should maximize degradation rates (right inoculum present and no nutrient limitation). Equally, we have managed to develop an adapted method with significantly shorter time frames. However, in order to implement that method with Glaukos samples, films and yarns must be produced.
  3. Introduce in the assessment scheme ecotoxicity testing in order to warrant development of innocuous materials for marine fauna.
    By the end of Glaukos 1st reporting period (month 18), any further development and/or implementation updates related with the topic of this deliverable, ie. “Standardized methods (to test plastic degradability in marine environment)”, will be communicated.

Nowadays, the production of synthetic polymers commonly known as “plastic” is estimated around 450 million tons yearly1. The remarkable increase in the production over the last 70 years is due to its beneficial properties such as being a long-lasting, affordable and reusable material. However, this mounting production turned out to be the origin of one of the most critical environmental issues, plastic pollution.
Country strategies for plastic waste management often fall short in effectively recycling or incinerating plastic, leading to an accumulation that can contribute to environmental pollution2. Due to inefficient waste management and littering, a substantial proportion of plastic garbage is introduced in the natural environment, and due to global circulation, it ends up in the oceans. Ocean currents tend to concentrate floating plastic in oceanic central gyres, and hydrodynamics and winter storms accumulate them in exposed coastal areas called “hot spots”.
In the sea, wind, waves, microorganisms and especially sunlight slowly break down the plastics into small particles of less than 5 mm length, called “microplastics” (MPs)3. Large plastics threaten wildlife because of ghost fishing and obstruction of the digestive track, among other consequences4, but MPs also interact with living organisms and produce several deleterious effects whose severity is inversely related to their particle size5. However, the most relevant ecological risk posed by MPs is not related to particles themselves but to the release of chemicals used as functional additives during manufacturing of plastic materials6. Therefore, environmentally friendly plastics must not only degrade but also lack toxic chemical constituents potentially released during degradation. Moreover, some chemicals used in plastics may mimic the effects of natural hormones, acting therefore as endocrine disruptors interfering with hypothalamic-pituitary-thyroid/adrenal/gonadal axes7.
The European Environment Agency (EEA) highlighted that one of the sources of accumulation of MPs in the environment is the wearing and washing of textiles made from synthetic (plastic) fibres that constitutes more than 16% of the MPs found nowadays in marine environment. But they can be also found in drinking water systems and drifting through the air. Actions like implementing sustainable design and production processes, controlling MP emissions during use and improving disposal and end-of-life processing would reduce the release of these particles to the environment8.
At the beginning of the Glaukos project, literature review of previously available methods for the assessment of polymers’ biodegradation in marine environment was performed9,10. The lack of practical methods that can be representative of real marine conditions together with the absence of an ecological perspective in previously proposed analysis pushed us during the project to develop a practical, sensitive and highly standardized assessment scheme in order to identify truly “marine-friendly” polymers.
This integrative assessment scheme in terms of its potential impact on marine ecosystems is presented within the context of this project, which aims to develop sustainable and eco-friendly biopolymers to be used in fishing gears and textiles. However, it holds validity as a standard approach to develop marine-friendly polymers in general.

The aim of this deliverable (D6.4), is to propose a strategy of integrative assessment of novel plastic materials that allow the identification of truly innocuous plastics with regard to the marine environment, and to validate that strategy with polymers and coatings developed within the project. This deliverable is linked to milestone 6.2, “Project-validated methods + report on assessment of Glaukos products”.

This document, Methodological guidelines for the assessment of Glaukos, is a public deliverable related to WP7. The objective of this document is to provide methodological guidelines for the assessment of the Glaukos polymers in regard to the different angles of sustainability, i.e. plastic leak, circularity and life cycle assessment. To capture the potential trade-offs between these angles and to create the basis for an informed decision-making process, several state-of-the-art methodologies and indicators have been identified, namely LCA indicators, circularity indicators and a plastic leakage assessment. The methodologies and indicators are discussed in Sections 2.1, 2.2 and 2.3 below, and an approach for capturing an integrated view of the individual perspectives is also provided.

In the pursuit of advancing sustainable solutions within the textile industry, the Glaukos project has emphasized the integration of innovative methodologies to assess the environmental impact of bio-based polymers, as sustainability is multi-dimensional and requires looking at the systems in their full complexity. These assessments are pivotal in mitigating the unintended consequences of plastic pollution, resource use and other environmental consequences derived from conventional textile materials. The methodology, as delineated in Deliverable (D) 7.1 (Methodological guidelines for the assessment of Glaukos), outlines a comprehensive approach that evaluates life cycle impacts, circularity, and plastic leakage of the materials developed within the Glaukos project.
A key component of this methodology is the introduction of the Circularity-Life cycle assessment-Plastic leakage (CLiP) indicator, a novel approach designed specifically for the Glaukos project to include a holistic view of the different sustainability assessments. This report marks the inaugural application of the CLiP indicator, a single indicator integrating the Lifecycle Assessment (LCA), Plastic Leakage Project (PLP)1 assessment and Material Circularity Indicator (MCI)2 to include the trade-off element into the sustainability assessment. This approach has both a qualitative (i.e., visual) and quantitative aspect using linear algebra. The implementation of CLiP within this project serves not only as a benchmark for evaluating the Glaukos polymers but also as a crucial step towards validating and refining this innovative method.
The current report extends these methodological frameworks by incorporating the results obtained from subsequent studies detailed in D7.2 (Environmental Life Cycle Assessment of Glaukos processes and products) and D7.3 (Circularity Assessment of the Glaukos value chains), which are confidential reports. These documents provide insights into the life cycle assessment and circularity metrics of Glaukos polymers, offering a comparative analysis against traditional materials. By synthesizing these methodologies with practical outcomes, we aim to provide a robust overview of the environmental performance of Glaukos solutions and contribute towards more informed decisions on sustainability within the textile sector.
Within the Glaukos project, different polymers (under the names GL-XX, where XX is the number of the specific polymer) were developed with the goal to obtain the desired properties. This report shows the CLiP assessment of the only polymer which was successfully upscaled for textiles within the Glaukos project at the time of writing this report (polymer GL-14, also known as GL-49 in its upscaled version and referred to as Glaukos polymer in this document), as well as the reference (polyester). An additional polymer, GL-26, which was developed after the writing of D7.2 and D7.3 is included in this report. Details on the environmental assessment of this polymer can be found in the final technical period report. At the time of the writing of this report, the data for the fishing gear material is not available yet and has therefore been excluded from the analysis.

PUBLICATIONS

Effects of Ethinylestradiol (EE2) and an Organophosphorus Flame Retardant (TCPP) on Gonadal Maturation in the Sea Urchin, Paracentrotus lividus

Microbial Degradation of Plastics

Chemical and biological catalysis for plastics recycling and upcycling

Surface display as a functional screening platform for detecting enzymes active on PET

FERMENTATION: Balancing pH and Yield: Exploring Itaconic Acid Production in Ustilago cynodontis from an Economic Perspective

FERMENTATION: Itaconate Production from Crude Substrates with U. maydis: Scale-up of an Industrially Relevant Bioprocess

FERMENTATION: Introducing molasses as an alternative feedstock into itaconate production using Ustilago sp

END OF LIFE – BIORECYCLING: Chemical and biological catalysis for plastics recycling and upcycling

END OF LIFE – BIORECYCLING: Biodegradation of poly(ester-urethane) coatings by Halopseudomonas formosensis

END OF LIFE – BIORECYCLING: Bio-upcycling of even and uneven medium-chain-length diols and dicarboxylates to polyhydroxyalkanoates using engineered Pseudomonas putida

END OF LIFE-BIODEGRADATION: Is a compostable plastic biodegradable in the sea? A rapid standard protocol to test mineralization in marine conditions

END OF LIFE-BIODEGRADATION: A Practical Tool for the Assessment of Polymer Biodegradability in Marine Environments Guides the Development of Truly Biodegradable Plastics

END OF LIFE-BIODEGRADATION: UV Dosage Unveils Toxic Properties of Weathered Commercial Bioplastic Bags

END OF LIFE-BIODEGRADATION: Widespread alterations upon exposure to the estrogenic endocrine disruptor ethinyl estradiol in the liver proteome of the marine male fish Cyprinodon variegatus

END OF LIFE-BIODEGRADATION: Effects of primary leachates of conventional and alternative plastics in Cyprinodon variegatus fish larvae: Endocrine disruption and toxicological responses

END OF LIFE-BIODEGRADATION: Evaluating the alterations of the estrogen-responsive genes in Cyprinodon variegatus larvae for biomonitoring the impacts of estrogenic endocrine disruptors (EEDs)